Palomar Mountain State Park, California, and a light mist descended over the forest of pine and cedar. I was leading a wildlife foray there for the first time. Evening wouldn’t be long, so we had to be quick in finding what we’d come to see. The wait seemed endless. Then we heard it. Gobble-gobble-gobble!! Strutting amongst shrubbery was the unmistakeable wrinkled skin and fanning tail of a male wild turkey courting two females. Again, gobble-gobble-gobble!! He was black and rounded to their sleeker, browner look. He was strutting proud and free. It was a fitting end to a wonderful day. 

I haven’t seen a wild turkey since. In fact, I haven’t led wildlife tours around the world now for over twenty years. But that moment stays with me, especially this time of year as millions prepare to welcome the long-standing tradition of the Christmas turkey. But behind the golden, glistening centrepiece lies a story few pause to consider—a journey from farm to feast that raises crucial questions about animal welfare, farming practices, and the choices we make at this special time of year.

Turkey’s journey

Roast turkey as a holiday staple has a surprisingly transatlantic origin. Introduced to Europe in the 1500s by Spanish explorers returning from the Americas, turkeys quickly captured the imagination of the wealthy. Their exotic allure and size made them a prized addition to festive menus, eclipsing older traditions like goose.

King Henry VIII is said to have championed the turkey’s rise in Britain, but its journey from royal tables to the homes of ordinary families was a slow burn. By the 19th century, improved farming and transportation made turkeys more accessible, solidifying their role as the heart of the Christmas feast.

Shifting traditions

According to Good Housekeeping magazine, turkey still holds the majority share of our festive tables this year, with 52% of households putting it there. In recent years, its dominance has been challenged as families seek alternatives that reflect changing tastes and lifestyles. While many still view turkey as a quintessential festive tradition, some have moved towards more diverse options, including beef, pork, lamb, seafood, vegetarian, and vegan dishes.

This shift stems from concerns about sustainability, food waste (with large turkeys for small gatherings), and a desire for variety.

Down on the farm, little has changed in decades. I remember stumbling across a turkey farm and finding hundreds of birds crammed into a dirty, barren, windowless shed, their beaks cut to stop them pecking at each other out of sheer frustration. It was a far cry from the parading wild bird I’d seen the States. 

The majority of turkeys consumed are reared intensively, with estimates suggesting this to be around 90%.

Hidden reality

Barely a year goes by without turkey farming being subject to an expose. One by self-confessed former gang member turned animal advocate, Joey Carbstrong, revealed injured, limping, and dying birds left to suffer at a turkey farm in North Yorkshire. Some turkeys had their eyes pecked out. Footage at the farm showed birds confined to cramped, unsanitary spaces. Workers were seen grabbing birds by the neck and throwing them around. Some workers were also seen appearing to laugh at dying birds.

This recalls my first investigation, where turkeys at a pre-Christmas slaughterhouse were punched to stop them flapping as they hung upside down. That same investigation witnessed three workers surrounding a turkey, dangling and helpless, as they sang loudly at the petrified bird, “So here it is, merry Christmas, everybody’s having fun.”

I’ve never wanted to eat turkey since.

Free-range alternatives

Thankfully, there are producers out there that are doing better by keeping turkeys’ free range or organic. Supporting small-scale farms and regenerative agriculture practices can also help restore ecosystems, boost local economies, and reduce environmental impact.

Free-range turkey farming in Scotland as elsewhere is known for raising turkeys outdoors on spacious, natural environments. This method promotes healthier birds and better-quality meat, while supporting local farmers. The Scottish climate and landscape also contribute to the rich flavour, making it a premium choice.

Free-range birds grow more slowly in natural conditions, benefiting both the birds and consumers. Good Housekeeping notes they have more flavour: “Go for the highest welfare option you can afford, as we find you can taste it in the finished dish.”

Plant-based festivities

For those wanting to give plant-based a try this festive season, most supermarkets have unveiled vegan ranges. Plant-based roasts, stuffed with mushrooms, root vegetables, and plant-based stuffing, are becoming a popular choice. These delicious, meat-free alternatives give the festive meal a new twist, offering savoury flavours without the meat—perfect for vegans, vegetarians, or anyone looking to make a more sustainable choice this holiday season.

Making informed choices

Whatever you choose this holiday season, being mindful of animal welfare, food waste, and sustainability ensures your loved ones enjoy a better tasting meal. 

In the end, the holiday season is about more than just the meal itself—it’s about making choices that reflect our values. Whether you opt for a traditional turkey, a free-range option, or a plant-based alternative, each choice carries the potential to make a positive impact. By thinking carefully about where our food comes from, we can create a festive feast that’s not only delicious but also responsible and compassionate. So, this Christmas, let’s celebrate with food that nourishes both the body and the soul, ensuring that every meal is one worth savouring.

Note: A version of this article was first published in The Scotsman on Friday 13^th December, 2024

Main Image: An intensive turkey farm | Credit: CIWF